When purchasing a new appliance or television, you might not have thought of what to do with the old one until the new one is in your home, ready to be installed. Now what? There’s always the option of putting your old TV in your bedroom and the old refrigerator in the garage. But then again, you replaced them because they were old, not working right, and didn’t match the new colors of your kitchen remodel.

Most waste management programs consider preventing waste even before it happens as the most viable option-even above recycling. This means if your appliance or electronic items are still in working condition, consider selling them or donating them to a charity or other donation center for reselling. The benefit for this is twofold: when the charity sells the item, the proceeds go to medical research or other worthwhile causes and some items end up in the homes of needy families to be used again.

If your appliance has seen better days and is in dire need of repair, skip the charities and donation centers and just recycle the item so that someone else doesn’t end up with your problems. In most cases, recycling doesn’t cost you anything but a small amount of your time and you just might end up with a few dollars in your wallet in the form of cash or a tax deduction on your annual return.

WHY RECYCLE?
There are a multitude of reasons to recycle your appliances and electronics-the most important of which is pollution-or rather the prevention of pollution. When you see a TV sitting quietly curbside waiting for the weekly trash pickup service, you can be sure there are toxic chemicals inside the unit that can pollute our earth and waterways. Other forms of pollution are the efforts needed to mine new resources-such as aluminum, gold, and steel-instead of reusing what’s already been dug up and processed.

The best thing to do is find a local recycling center to donate your items. If they have free, local pickup, your end of the deal could be no more than placing a phone call and setting the item outside in an area accessible to their crew. The recycling center will disassemble the unit to retrieve metals and other items that are used again-recycled-to create new TVs and other products.

CRT Processing Corporation (Janesville, WI)
They specialize in the proper recycling of used or obsolete
computer monitors, televisions, and other electronic equipment.
HAUL IT AWAY
One option you’ve got that won’t cost you time or money is to have hhgregg haul your old unit away-for free-on a one-for-one exchange basis. This means our delivery team will haul away your old refrigerator when they arrive to deliver your new refrigerator. Now that’s service! Here’s a list of items that hhgregg will haul away when they arrive to deliver a like item:

If you have any questions about this policy, please review our “Home Delivery Do’s and Don’ts” or contact the hhgregg store nearest your home.

OPTIONS & CHOICES
You can be sure that every single appliance and home electronics piece of equipment in your home-including video consoles/games and cell phones-has a recycling center that wants your stuff. Here are some resources to find an organization to handle your unwanted items:

Samsung – Launched on October 1, 2008, Samsung Recycling Direct^SM is a national program which enables consumers to conveniently and responsibly recycle their old electronics. Samsung Recycling Direct^SM provides more than 170 fixed drop off locations spread out over all 50 states. To find the location nearest you, click here.

myGreenElectronics – Learn about the 4 R’s (Reduce, Reuse, Recycle, Rethink) and find recycling centers in your neighborhood by ZIP Code.

AT&T Reuse and Recycle – They offer the option to bring unwanted cell phones, Personal Data Assistants (PDAs) and other accessories (regardless of the manufacturer or carrier) to an AT&T operated store or participating authorized dealer store near you. Use the store locator to find a participating store near you.

Earth 911 – Earth 911 is a comprehensive communication medium for the environment. Earth 911 has taken environmental hotlines, web sites and other information sources nationwide, and consolidated them into one network. Once you contact the Earth 911 network, you will find community-specific information on eCycling and much more.

Rechargeable Battery Recycling Corporation (RBRC) – If it’s rechargeable, it’s recyclable! RBRC can help you recycle portable rechargeable batteries commonly found in cordless power tools, cellular and cordless phones, laptop computers, camcorders, digital cameras, and remote control toys. Search for collection sites by Zip Code.

Sony – Has a recycling program that makes it easy to dispose of electronics in an environmentally-safe way. Bring your unwanted electronic products to any participating drop off center and recycle it for free.

Hewlett-Packard (HP) – Their recycling program includes hardware, LaserJet supplies, and Inkjet supplies. They also have a trade-in program.

LG Electronics – Offers consumers-free of charge-recycling of any product such as televisions, monitors, audio equipment, video cassette players and recorders, DVD players and recorders, combination TV/VCR and TV/DVD units, set top boxes and accessories associated with those products that have the LG, Zenith, or Goldstar brands. Consumers can drop off up to five items at any one time for free at any of these locations.

Toshiba – With the Toshiba Free Electronic Program you can recycle your old electronics regardless of the brand and at no cost to you. They also provide a trade-in option should you want to trade in your used products for cash.

Motorola – Consumers can visit Motorola’s website to print out postage-paid mailing labels (PDF) and send in any unused phones or accessories. They accept any mobile phone or accessory-not just Motorola products.

1-800-Got-Junk? – Full-service junk removal company that will remove almost anything-including appliances. Plus, they do all the loading and cleanup-wherever the item is located. This means you don’t have to lift a finger and they’ll retrieve the item out of your basement, garage, kitchen, etc.

FINAL THOUGHTS
The most important thing to remember is that we all have choices in the proper disposing of appliances and electronics that don’t work anymore or have been replaced with the latest and greatest advances in technology. Dumping them in the trash is not an option and could have long-term affects on the environment-where we all live and breathe.

Some states have enacted legislation around disposal of consumer electronics. Since July 20, 2006, all waste computer monitors and televisions generated by households in the state of Maine must be recycled unless shipped out of state for disposal. For information on regulations in your area, contact your local municipality to inquire about private and state-funded recycling programs.

Still have questions?-feel free to speak with an hhgregg associate. We offer the best-educated associates in the business who are smart enough to make it simple. Price and Advice Guaranteed!

It might be hard to realize considering all the technological gadgets which surrounded us in today’s world but some homes still don’t have the household tool known as the dishwasher. At the beginning of the 1980s, only 43 percent of homes in the United States had a dishwasher and that number only increased 17 percent over the next 25 years. How could a household appliance that does the work for you-and better than you-be so ignored?

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Dishwashers are quite possibly the biggest labor and money saving appliance in your kitchen’s arsenal. You wouldn’t go without a refrigerator or gasp … your microwave. So why waste time, physical and electrical energy, and water when the dishwasher can do it all?

Perhaps it is because there are still some of you-and you know who you are-that still believe a dishwasher uses more electricity and water than doing the dishes by hand. Not true. In fact, washing dishes by hand uses much more water than using a dishwasher. Using an ENERGY STAR® qualified dishwasher instead of hand washing will save 5,000 gallons of water annually, $40 in utility costs, and 230 hours of your precious time.

An ENERGY STAR® qualified dishwasher typically uses one-third less water than a non-qualified model. The average ENERGY STAR® qualified dishwasher uses four gallons per cycle while the average non-qualified dishwasher uses six gallons a cycle. In comparison, most dishwashers manufactured since 1994 use seven to 10 gallons of water per cycle. With today’s advanced and eco-friendly dishwashers, you can wash 2.5 loads of dishes per one load’s worth of water from the dishwashers of yesteryear.

Other than ensuring your dishwasher is less than 10-years-old and is ENERGY STAR® qualified, there are other things you can do to ensure you’re conserving water. Scraping excess food into the garbage disposal instead of pre-rinsing dishes before loading your dishwasher can save a whopping 20 gallons of water. Simply scrape food off the dishes and load. That’s why it’s called a dishwasher!

ENERGY STAR® qualified dishwashers and today’s detergents are designed to do the cleaning so you don’t have to pre-rinse. If your dirty dishes are going to sit overnight, use your dishwasher’s rinse feature which still uses a fraction of the water needed to hand rinse.

HOW DOES A DISHWASHER WORK?
We all know the old way of washing dishes. Left sink for soaking and scrubbing and the right sink for rinsing. But how do dishwashers get the job done? After all, the door is closed while all this is going on and all you know is they are dirty when they went in and clean when they came out.

First item to note is that dishwashers don’t pump in water to fill themselves. Once the pre-wash cycle has been initiated, the dishwasher opens a valve that lets in water. The water is under the same pressure as the rest of your household pipes. Your dishwasher does have a pump but it is only used for draining purposes to remove soiled water from the unit.

The amount of water allowed into your dishwasher is controlled by an internal timer. Basically, water is let into the unit for a specific amount of time not a specific amount of water. Since the natural flow of water changes by community, areas where water pressure is low could starve the dishwasher of water by only partially filling up the unit before the timer expires. The end result would be dirty dishes. Review the owner’s manual or other associated documentation available with your dishwasher to determine the acceptable high and low water pressure range.

HOW HOT IS HOT?
According to the U.S. Department of Energy (http://www.energy.gov/), a temperature of 120 F (49 C) is adequate for most household chores with a minimal danger of scalding and maximum energy efficiency. However, that 120 F is at the tap, not in your water tank. Your water tank’s temperature should be no less than 130 F (55 C) to help prevent bacterial growth and to ensure water delivered to the dishwasher is at least 120 F. Some water temperature can be lost in transit depending on the distance of water heater to dishwasher.

To ensure the water is hot as soon as it enters your dishwasher, run the faucet closest to the dishwasher (probably the kitchen sink) long enough to clear out all the cold water. Once the water is at is hottest, turn the faucet off and start your dishwasher. If you’re unsure of how hot the water is entering your dishwasher, here’s a test you can do to check the temperature:

Step 1 Run the water faucet closest to the dishwasher (probably the kitchen sink) long enough to clear out all the cold water.

Step 2 Hold a thermometer (a meat or candy thermometer should do the trick) in the stream of water to check the temperature.

Step 3 If the temperature is less than 120 F, have a qualified serviceman adjust your water heater’s temperature accordingly.

But, the 120 F is just to begin the cleaning process of your dishes, pans, and cutlery. An additional 20 degrees (140 F) is needed to remove food soiling and 155 degrees is needed to sanitize and remove bacteria. Any additional water heating above the initial temperature of 120 F is done inside the dishwasher-not by your water heater-using a pre-heat or booster unit.

REAL SAVINGS
With the assistance of Electrolux, nine cities in the nine states where hhgregg stores are located have been selected to show what economical and ecological savings could be obtained. The statistics below are derived from what the possible savings would be if everyone in each city were to upgrade their outdated dishwasher to a new energy-efficient and water-efficient model.

The results from the calculations are broken down into four categories:

Carbon Dioxide (reduction)
The amount of carbon dioxide emissions saved is equivalent to all households in the city driving a car for 242 miles.

Money (saved)
The gross amount of money saved from all households in the city.

Electricity (savings)
The amount of electricity saved is equivalent to all households in the city letting one 60W light bulb shine day and night for 105 days.

Water (savings)
The amount of water saved is equivalent to 12 hours of flow from one tap in every household in the city.

FINAL THOUGHTS
You can never fail when saving time and money-an ENERGY STAR® qualified dishwasher accomplishes both. To qualify for an ENERGY STAR® rating, the dishwasher must use at least 41 percent less energy than the federal minimum standard for energy consumption. Other things you can do to conserve energy and water is to only wash a load when the dishwasher is full, use the dishwasher’s air-dry option, and scrape food off instead of pre-rinsing.

Although the average dishwasher will provide your family with years of service, it won’t perform as designed without proper cleaning and scheduled maintenance. Your dishwasher is a cleaning tool-keep it clean! Review your owner’s manual before operating your dishwasher for the first time to learn all the features, functions, and benefits of this wonderful appliance.

Still have questions?-feel free to speak with an hhgregg associate. We offer the best-educated associates in the business who are smart enough to make it simple. Price and Advice Guaranteed!

The icebox of yesterday used to be lined with cork, sawdust, straw, or even seaweed to help keep the perishables inside from spoiling. Today’s refrigerators stand tall and quiet and do an extremely efficient job of keeping food cool and frozen. Plus, the technological advances of water and crystal-clear ice dispensers, digital temperature controls, and an array of door and compartment configurations make for a can’t-do-without kitchen appliance.

Whether you’re a first-time buyer or replacing an older model, plan for your growing family and even plan for your family to shrink. The kids will move away eventually. If you’ve got four teenagers that will be living on their own in four years, a 25-cubic foot total capacity refrigerator might be way too big down the road when you become an empty nester.

Follow our easy-to-use, five-step method for selecting the right refrigerator and you’ll be stowing away your veggies, frozen foods, and your midnight snacks in no time!

STEP 1 = LOCATION, LOCATION, LOCATION!
There are restrictions in your home based on location because of your refrigerator’s overall size, the structural layout of your kitchen, and the air circulation needed around the unit.

If you’re building a home and construction isn’t complete yet, you might be able to ensure you’ve got plenty of room in the floor plans. If you’re replacing a fridge that has seen better days, you might be limited to purchasing the same size that you already have due to existing conditions. At least the new fridge will be more energy efficient and have more features.

Kitchen Layout – The mere size of your refrigerator might only give you one location in the kitchen to install it. Don’t fret. Use the space you have wisely by measuring the width, depth, and height of the available space. Also, measure the width with the door(s) open to ensure your new refrigerator won’t block a passageway or hit an object before the door is fully opened.

Hookups – Another location restriction you might run into is the available power source and water connections for the ice maker. If you’ve selected an installation location away from these sources, consult with a professional to have the connections relocated.

Air Circulation – For maximum efficiency, ensure your refrigerator has some breathing room by allowing for air to circulate behind, underneath, both sides, and the top. Leave space between the wall and cabinets.

STEP 2 = CUBIC FEET REQUIREMENTS
Select a refrigerator that fits your needs in your home. Too small and you’ll be constantly rearranging shelves to get that last item to fit. Too large and it will occupy a large footprint in your kitchen and will consume more electricity than is needed, consequently costing you more to operate. 

The most common mistake in purchasing a refrigerator is buying one that is way too big. So what is the perfect size? That depends. As a general rule, 8-10 cubic feet of fresh food storage is needed for two people. From there, add one cubic foot for each member of your household.

Two refrigerators with similar total cubic feet capacities can have vastly different sizes of fresh food to freezer compartment capacities. Check the numbers on the manufacturer’s literature to be sure.

STEP 3 = DOOR CONFIGURATIONS
With location and cubic feet still in mind, it is time to pick out the door configuration of your new refrigerator. Even if the kitchen is your castle, think of the other members of your family that will be using the refrigerator.

Side-by-Side – Although a side-by-side doesn’t have the full swing of a single-door refrigerator, consideration must still be taken because one door opens to the left and one door opens to the right. Ensure there are no obstacles on either side, including blocking passageways in and out of the kitchen.

The term side-by-side comes from both doors (and the inner compartments) standing vertically and side-by-side each other. The freezer is on the left while the fresh food area is on the right.

French Doors – The entire area behind the French doors is the fresh food compartment, keeping everyday food at eye level. The freezer is a drawer conveniently located below the French doors. Since both the fresh and freezer compartments are the full width of the refrigerator, wider items such as pizza boxes can be stored flat and larger food items, such as a Thanksgiving turkey, can be stored with ease.

All Refrigerator – If you have an upright or chest freezer to store all your frozen foods, a refrigerator with no freezer can store all your fresh food needs without worrying about space. These units have the same general appearance as a fresh/frozen refrigerator except they only have one door – to access all the fresh food inside at the same time. They also came in a variety of cubic foot sizes comparable to a regular fresh/frozen refrigerator.

2-Door Top Freezer – This model has the freezer on the top and is the most traditional style available today. Some smaller refrigerators of this style have a single door to access the fresh food and then a second door located on the inside of the unit to access the freezer (which is usually very small). This type of refrigerator is basic in appearance but still has features and options available that are comparable to the more expensive styles.

2-Door Bottom Freezer – Placing the freezer on the bottom allows for eye level access to the foods you use most-in the fresh food compartment. There is one door to access your fresh food and one door to access your frozen food providing full view of everything you’ve got available to make dinner.

Compact (Beer/Wine Coolers) – These little workhorses are just smaller versions of their kitchen relatives. They do a small job on a smaller scale but are perfect for the office, dorm room, garage, or basement. Features don’t fall short on these models either as they can have most any option their larger counterparts have. A popular use for these refrigerators is for beverages only, including use as a wine cooler. Some of these units are designed to hold pony kegs (15.5 gallons) for party nights and then easily converts back to a compact refrigerator when the party’s over.

STEP 4 = FEATURES & FINISHES
The features available on refrigerators are vast and combinations of options are virtually limitless. The exterior of your refrigerator has many colors to choose from, including the popular stainless steel finish.

Shelves – The amount, location, and versatility of the shelves in your refrigerator is very important. The ability to raise/lower a shelf or remove it completely will be a consideration if you need to accommodate very tall items. Some shelves slide in and out like drawers to keep from having to reach for items stored in the back. Also, look for shelves that are easily removable for periodic cleaning.

Shelving includes the storage available in the doors. Here you can also find adjustable shelves which are capable of holding gallon-sized jugs to keep them from taking up too much space in other parts of the refrigerator.

Drawers/Baskets – The core use for the crisper drawers is to store fruits and vegetables. Other uses are for storing items that don’t stack well (e.g., fruit/pudding cups) and for items that aren’t used very much but still need to be refrigerated.

Crisper drawer fronts can be clear, frosted, white, or opaque. Freezer baskets are constructed of metal coated with a durable plastic. They have several large holes in them to ensure the cold air circulates around the food properly to keep it frozen solid. These baskets usually slide in and out like a crisper drawer and are easily removable for cleaning.

Door Finishes – Your refrigerator can actually fit your décor instead of just being a large box located in the kitchen-gone are the days of harvest gold and olive green. You can now choose from white, black, biscuit, and stainless steel (faux and authentic).

Some kitchens go all-out and opt for counter-depth refrigerators which are surfaced with matching kitchen cabinetry to blend in with the design of the room.

Ice Makers/Water Dispensers – One of the reasons why water and ice dispensers are such a nice convenience is because you don’t have to open the door to use them. The cold air from the freezer would escape when you grab some ice and the constant temperature inside would be temporarily lost. There are even some models that will dispense crushed ice.

These dispensers aren’t just for a cold glass of water; some have the capability to fill tall pitchers for serving and stock pots for boiling pasta. Water filtration systems are available as an option or standard feature on almost all refrigerators that have through-the-door water and ice dispensing.

Lighting – Ensure there is enough lighting to see everything inside your refrigerator. You don’t want to have to remove items to see what’s in the back because it is so dark. Also ensure the lighting is easily replaceable if it goes out. Most refrigerators come with 25-75 watt bulbs but LEDs are quickly becoming the new standard.

Food Safety – Some models have adjustable humidity drawers. This will help keep meats and cheeses fresher even longer. Humidity settings are also important for vegetables-low humidity for fruits and high humidity for vegetables. Keeping food edible longer will help keep your family safe and save you money.

Look for a model with a digital temperature display in the door. This feature alerts you when the temperature inside the refrigerator or the freezer gets too hot or too cold and if the door has been left ajar. This will prevent spoilage and waste by informing you when your food is no longer at a safe temperature.

Some units have child locks on them to keep your little ones from opening the door. The will also keep them from accidentally leaving the door open or getting into food or drinks they aren’t supposed to eat.

Defrosting – Although automatic defrost models can consume up to two times more energy than a comparable manual defrost model, consider the additional time and effort needed perform the manual defrost duties.

ENERGY STAR
To receive the stamp of approval from ENERGY STAR, a refrigerator must use at least 20 percent less energy than current federal standards. Through better insulation, improved door seals, more efficient compressors and precise temperature controls, today’s refrigerators consume 40 percent less energy than conventional models sold in 2001.

ENERGY STAR appliances might cost more up front due to better construction and higher quality materials, but the result will be significant savings throughout the lifetime of the product.  If there is one feature of your new refrigerator you can’t live without, it would be ENERGY STAR.

STEP 5 = MAKE YOUR PURCHASE!
You’ve done your homework. You’ve measured and re-measured. Now you’ve got your heart set on the perfect one and it is time to bring it home.

To view our line of side-by-sides, French doors, 2-doors, compacts, and all-refrigerators, click here.

FINAL THOUGHTS
Technology, design, and efficiency have all come together to make the refrigerator an effective tool and an easy on the eyes asset to your kitchen. No matter your living space, your budget, or the size of your family, you fresh and frozen needs can be met.

Don’t forget to allow for the leveling legs of the refrigerator in your height measurements and allow space for the hinges to open and close. Keep your refrigerator away from all heat sources, even sunlight. Any additional external heat will make your refrigerator work harder to keep the food inside cold.

Still have questions?-feel free to speak with an hhgregg associate. We offer the best-educated associates in the business who are smart enough to make it simple. Price and Advice Guaranteed!

Have you ever stopped to realize just how often we rely upon our everyday appliances?  Dishwashers, refrigerators, stovetops, ovens, washers, dryers, air conditioners-I could go on.  We just don’t realize how convenient modern appliances have made our lives until one of them malfunctions or breaks down.

Whether you’re replacing a broken appliance or buying a new one, the following tips will help you get through the buying process without losing any sleep.

• Accurately measure and record the height, width and depth of the area where your appliance will go, ensuring easy access to all features and enough room is left for doors to swing open.
• Measure all doorways that your new appliance will be required to pass through to get to its final resting place-you don’t want to be forced to remove doors and molding, or worse, sending the appliance back.
• Don’t ignore the weight of the appliance: Make sure you have the necessary help or tools when moving appliances to or from their locations.
• Collect and study information about the appliance, its features and available brands, via product brochures, manufacturers’ websites, and other trusted sources.
• Consider the amount of energy the appliance will use; you may pay a premium for an energy-efficient appliance, but it could save you more in the long-run.
• If you’re particular to a specific color or style, you’ll often need to balance an appliance feature set with its aesthetics-decide which is more important to you before shopping.
• Make sure you have the proper hookups for the appliances you seek: a water hookup for in-door water and ice refrigerators, proper gas or electric hookups for washers and dryers, etc.
• Closely examine warranties and extended service plans so you’ll have the peace of mind that should accompany any significant purchase.
• Once you’ve found the model you want, search for the best price. Shop around for sales, rebates, free delivery and/or removal of old appliances.

Still have questions? – feel free to speak with an hhgregg associate. We offer the best-educated associates in the business who are smart enough to make it simple. Price and Advice Guaranteed!

Freezers have taken the leap into technology and have become one of the most used appliances in your kitchen’s arsenal. Today’s busy lifestyles have increased the need for quick and easy-to-prepare meals that are right from the freezer. With mom and the kids at soccer practice and dad working late, kitchens still need to host healthy meals that can be prepared on a moment’s notice. With the explosion of frozen gourmet dinners, you can be sure your teenager is still eating well when their schedule doesn’t match the rest of the family. This is where today’s sophisticated freezers step into the picture.

No longer just a large box located in basements and garages, modern freezers have digital electronic controls, temp/open door alarms, and an array of other frozen technology advances. Innovative changes keep frozen foods at your fingertips with a wide array of adjustable and retractable baskets and bins, split-shelves, and bookend-style organizers.

Even with the smaller chest-style freezers, you could easily double your available freezer space while saving money by increasing your buying power. An upright or chest freezer is perfect for large meat orders, taking advantage of bulk food specials, having food on hand for entertaining, and simply reducing your trips to the grocery store.

How do you solve the need for worry-free storing of additional frozen foods when the freezer section of your refrigerator just isn’t large enough for your family? Buy an upright or chest freezer – problem solved!

UPRIGHT & CHEST FREEZERS – Is there a Difference?
Prices for freezers are heavily influenced by the type and variety of storage systems and overall capacity. Upright freezers are usually more expensive than chest models of the same dimensions yet they provide less usable storage capacity because of specialized storage shelves and containers. One key difference between upright and chest freezers is defrosting. Chest freezers are available in manual defrost only while you have a choice of automatic (frost free) or manual defrosting in an upright.

Physical differences between an upright and a chest freezer first start with the footprint each requires. An upright for example, might be located in the kitchen area of some homes because it takes up approximately the same amount of floor and vertical space as your refrigerator. A chest freezer might have the same cubic foot dimensions but requires more floor space which could send it to a storage room, garage, or even the basement.

Another item to compare between upright or chest freezers is the exterior finish. A stainless steel upright can compliment your kitchen while a standard chest freezer is performing strictly usefulness over beauty duties and would be better left in the basement.

WHAT OPTIONS ARE AVAILABLE?
Both upright and chest freezers get the job done as assigned and that job is keeping your food at a temperature suitable for long-term storage. From there options can be abundant and vary from model to model.

Food and Family Safety
Some units have a feature that will automatically pop the door key out to prevent it from being left in the lock. This will keep you from worrying if your freezer door is shut and securely locked. Using locks is always a good idea for peace of mind and to ensure children don’t open the door to your freezer or change the setting on your control panel. Check to see what locks are available on the freezer you’re interested in before you buy.

If you unintentionally leave your freezer door ajar, there is an option available with alerts which will sound within five minutes that you’ve left the door open. The temperature inside your freezer reaching 23 degrees or higher is even worse than leaving your freezer door ajar. Some manufactures have an alarm that will sound if this happens.

Energy Conservation and Consumption
Upright and chest freezers will increase the grand total on your energy bill because, like your refrigerator, they are always on. Plus, more energy is required to keep your food frozen versus just keeping your food cool.

ENERGY STAR qualified models are available in both upright and chest freezers. A freezer is deemed qualified if it uses at least 10% less energy than required by current federal standards.

Ice Makers
Ensure your freezer has an ice maker installed or is clearly designated as ice maker ready. Converting your freezer to provide ice after the fact might not be worth the time and effort.

Exterior Finishes
Most upright and chest freezers come in white or black. Stainless steel is also an option along with wood finishes to match your kitchen’s cabinetry.

Storage Convenience
Chest freezers are able to accommodate odd-shaped items and large/long items such as turkeys and 5-gallon buckets of ice cream.

Some upright freezers have a designed zone which keeps small areas of the freezer at a higher temperature for storing item such as ice cream.

Check your particular model for specific storage items such as:

•  Slide-out Baskets
• Tilt-out and Adjustable Shelves
• Fast-freezing Shelves
• Retractable Pizza Shelves
• Adjustable Door Bins
• Chest and Basket Dividers
• Shelf Bookends

A very nice storage feature found on selected chest freezers is a pull-out drawer located on the bottom of the unit. These dual temperature zones are like having two freezers in one. You can store items that you want frozen solid (raw meat) in the main area and store items you want soft frozen (ice cream) in the lower drawer.

Storage Capacity
Capacity depends on your needs, short term and long term. The average maximum capacity range of a chest freezer ranges from 3.5 cubic feet for a compact model to 24.9 cubic feet for a large model. The average maximum capacity range of an upright freezer ranges from 5.0 cubic feet for a compact model to over 30 cubic feet for a large model.

Another point to consider is the freezer space taken up by an icemaker. That real estate could be used for storing frozen foods instead of frozen water but having a supply of ice on hand can be a nice convenience.

INSTALLATION & SPACE REQUIREMENTS
The first item to review in your decision making process for selecting an upright or chest freezer is where the appliance will be located in your home. A chest freezer might sit lower in height but might take up too much floor space. An upright freezer might fit perfectly in the floor space you have available but check for items such as cabinets which might not allow the freezer to stand vertically.

Consider the door swing on both upright and chest models. A chest model for example, might fit just right under a shelf in your garage but the door will only open a few inches. The opened door of an upright might block a door or entryway so you might need to find a model with a reversible door.

No matter how much you want that new freezer on the showroom floor, if it won’t fit in the space allotted in your home then it won’t do you much good.  Write down the width, height, and depth of your available space and bring those measurements to the hhgregg store nearest you.

Also take note of the travel path your new appliance must take to its designated resting spot in your home. Hallway turns, narrow doorways, and steep or multi-level staircases might play into your decision on which freezer is best suited for your needs.

FINAL THOUGHTS
If the extra cost is not a concern and you fancy keeping all your frozen items well organized and at easy reach, then an upright freezer is probably your best bet. If you are just looking for a more basic and economical way to store your frozen foods, then a chest freezer could be your choice. Other items to consider in your selection can simply be your lifestyle. A chest freezer located in a garage might be more ideal for storage of the venison meat you hunt every season, while an upright might be more suited for a large family requiring frequent access to an upright located in their kitchen.

Some families opt to go both routes with an upright freezer for everyday frozen foods and a chest freezer for seasonal wild game meat storage. To increase that option even farther, some families purchase a refrigerator ONLY unit which greatly increases their short-term, cold-food storage needs. Then they add an upright or chest freezer for their longer-term frozen food storage needs.

Still have questions? – feel free to speak with an hhgregg associate. We offer the best-educated associates in the business who are smart enough to make it simple. Price and Advice Guaranteed!

Your carpet gets walked on, day and night, by everyone you invite into your home. Even the family pet has probably taken a nap or two on your carpet. The appearance of your carpet can ruin the entire décor of your home if you don’t follow some basic steps and preparation. Your efforts will result in cleaner carpet, cleaner air, and maybe even a compliment from your in-laws when they come to visit.

HOW OFTEN DO I NEED TO VACUUM?
Whether you can see dirt or not, vacuum all your carpet on a regular, scheduled basis. It doesn’t take much foot traffic to cause surface dirt and debris to become embedded into the pile of your carpet. Once the dirt is that deep, only shampooing will remove it – and you could have easily solved the problem with the vacuum you have hiding in the closet.

Just like driving on the freeway, vacuuming too fast and making zigzag paths is a waste of time and might leave your carpet just as dirty as when you started. Slow down and use straight, front-to-back paths. Also, overlap each path just like you do when you mow your lawn; otherwise, you could end up dirty patches of carpet.

How much is too often to vacuum? As a general rule of thumb, once a week is a minimum for vacuuming your entire carpeted area. This would include edges, under throw rugs and mats, and under/behind furniture. Daily is recommended for high-traffic areas and twice weekly for medium-traffic areas.

SPOTS & SPILLS & STAINS
Although you can’t always be standing behind your kids or spouse every time they spill something on the carpet, getting to the mess as quickly as possible can prevent permanent stains. Keeping a spot remover kit handy along with your vacuuming regimen can keep the need for shampooing your carpet sooner than you had scheduled. There are other things you can do to keep your carpet cleaner at bay:

Doormats – Used on both sides of the door, doormats can drastically reduce the amount of wet and dry debris that reaches your carpet.

Shoes – Removing shoes at the door and wearing an additional pair of shoes for indoor use only can also reduce what dirt stays outside (where it belongs) and what dirt ends up in the bag of your vacuum cleaner.  If wearing shoes inside your home violates a family rule, consider wearing slippers or socks to help keep your carpet clean. Don’t go barefoot though, even the oils on the bottom of your feet can dirty your carpet.

Although a home remedy (e.g., ice cubes, brake cleaner, club soda, etc.) might get a spot out of your carpet this time, it is best to clean your spots, spills, and stains with the tools of the trade – vacuum cleaners and carpet steam cleaners.

Using a trick your neighbor passed onto you might mean messes like pet stains and odor, grease, and food stains could become a permanent part of your carpet. Your grandmother used home remedies because she didn’t have the tools you have available to solve even the worst of carpet cleaning problems.

RIGHT TOOL FOR THE RIGHT JOB
You’ll need a quality tool to do a quality job. Deciding which vacuum cleaner is right for you will depend on your needs and your carpet. We carry the following configurations of vacuum cleaners:

Upright Vacuums

• Great on all types of wall-to-wall carpeting including cut pile, frieze, Berber, etc.  Available with a wide array of attachments and features.

Canister Vacuums

• Great for all types of bare floors and carpet. Is usually lighter and easier to maneuver than an upright. This is due to the canister portion of the unit sitting on the carpet away but connected to the cleaning head.

Stick Vacuums

• Great for quick cleanup of carpet and bare floors. Are usually cordless and lightweight.

Hand-held Vacuums

• Great for picking up liquid spills including lifting liquid out of carpet and upholstery. This cordless vacuum is an excellent size for vacuuming out your car. It can be stored in a wall-mounted recharging assembly in your garage to charge for the next time it is needed.

Robotic Vacuums

• Great for vacuuming your carpet and bare floors as you sleep or for going over a high-traffic area on a daily basis while you’re away.

OPTIONS AND CHOICES
Specifications and options can vary widely from model to model so if you’re looking for a particular feature, ensure it is available in the vacuum you’re interested in before purchasing.

Stairs and Stairwells

• Cleaning the riser and tread of your stairs can be easier than ever with stair-specific attachments. Expandable wands which can extend to as much as 17 feet or more are awesome for getting to the hard-to-reach dust high above your stairway. You don’t want to be on tiptoes, hanging onto your balustrade while reaching for that last thread of a cobweb.

Bare Floors

• If you need your vacuum to clean your bare kitchen floor or the hardwood in your family room, ensure your model has an option to switch off the brush bar motor. Otherwise, the air within reach of your revolving brush will scatter the dust and dirt away from your vacuum cleaner. 

Height Adjustment

• Some models have automatic height adjustments for the cleaning head when going from one type of carpet to another. This will ensure constant contact is maintained with your carpet and you won’t have to stop to manually change the height selection. This will also ensure you don’t accidently select the wrong height for your carpet. 

Bags or Bagless

• If you have a preference between using disposable paper bags or using bagless bins/cups, ensure your model has it as original equipment (you can’t convert from bags to bagless or vice versa).

Power Cord

• If your vacuum turning off suddenly is the only time you are aware that you’re short on power cord, then you need to look for a model with an extra-long cord. There are cordless models available if access to outlets is an issue in the area you’re cleaning.
• A model with an extra-long cord would be in the 28 to 30-foot and longer range.  On a canister model, look for a power or foot-pedal cord rewinding feature.

Tools & Attachments

• All your hard-to-reach edges and above-the-floor cleaning needs require your vacuum cleaner’s tools to be within easy reach. Ensure all your wands, tools, and other attachments are nested into your vacuum cleaner before you get started. Needing your crevice tool when it is at the other end of the house is a nuisance.
• Some models have stretchable hoses which that can expand as much as a 5:1 ratio or more than their relaxed length.  Other tools and attachments include: 

• Wand Extensions
• Dusting Brushes
• Upholstery Tools
• Blind Attachments (mini and vertical)
• Ceiling Fan Attachments

Cleaning Path

• An extra-wide cleaning path can provide faster cleaning with fewer front-to-back paths. This can save you time but ensure the cleaning head is not so wide you can’t get around your furniture and other obstacles in your home. An extra-wide cleaning path is usually measured at 15″ and wider.

Bag Check Indicator

• If you’re using a vacuum cleaner with a bag, chances are you can’t tell if it is full or not unless you stop cleaning, remove the cover, and physically check it. Some models have a bag check indicator light which can eliminate wasting time by stopping to check the bag. A full bag means your vacuum cleaner cannot operate properly. Most bagless models have transparent bins/cups which allow for easy dirt level checking.
• It is best to dispose of full bags and empty full bins outside to minimize dirt, dust, and debris from accidentally reentering the air in your home.

Headlight

• An excellent feature for illuminating extra light in the darker areas of your home to ensure you don’t miss something while cleaning.

Pet Hair

• If your pets are shedding on your carpet, look for a model with a pet hair attachment. Another way pet hair is handled on some vacuum cleaners is with a front-mounted hair lifter which grabs and collects pet hair similar to a lint brush. There are even models considered to be pet hair specific.

Carrying Handle

• If you carry your vacuum up and down stairs or need to need to transport it on a regular basis, look for an ergonomic and balanced carrying handle. A light model of upright weighs approximately 11-15 pounds; a medium-sized upright weighs 16-20 pounds, and a larger upright weighs 21-25 pounds.

Storage

• You need to consider where your vacuum cleaner will be stored when not in use. If you live in a small apartment for example, a stick upright with a collapsible handle might be just what you need in a vacuum. If you live on two floors, then a storage closet on the floor with the most carpet might save you steps on cleaning day.

DEFINITIONS RELATED TO VACUUM CLEANERS
Vacuuming even has a few acronyms and terms used to describe how well your vacuum cleaner is designed to work. We’ll decipher the lingo for you here:

HEPA
HEPA stands for High Efficiency Particulate Air and refers to a filter that is certified to remove not less than 99.97 percent of airborne particles which are 0.3 microns in size or larger. Everyone should enjoy cleaner air but a HEPA-rated vacuum is more important to an allergy sufferer susceptible to allergens (e.g., dust mites, pet dander, grass pollens, ragweed, etc.). Ensure your model has a sealed or washable, lifetime HEPA filter.

CFM
Stands for Cubic Feet per Minute. It is defined as the volume of air your vacuum can circulate per minute. This is important because the higher the CFM, the more suction your vacuum cleaner will have. More suction equals more cleaning!

AMPS
An amp is an electrical unit which measures electrical current intensity. It simply tells the consumer how much electricity the vacuum cleaner uses to get the job done, not how much suction power there is available. Suction power is determined by air flow, not amperage. It is up to the manufacturer to productively use the electrical current drawn from your outlet to the motor of your vacuum. One 12-amp rated vacuum might have considerably less suction than another 12-amp rated vacuum.

FINAL THOUGHTS
Following simple vacuuming, spot cleaning, and deep-cleaning schedules will ensure you’ll be rolling out the red carpet for family and guests for years to come. Don’t forget to review your carpet’s warranty and manufacturer’s cleaning recommendations as they could have tips on maintenance and cleaning which are specific to your type of carpet.

Still have questions? – feel free to speak with an hhgregg associate. We offer the best-educated associates in the business who are smart enough to make it simple. Price and Advice Guaranteed!

You carpet looks dirty and dingy. But, why? You’ve diligently followed your vacuuming regimen and spot cleaned after the holidays. But, you can clearly see dirt paths forming from the living room to the hallway and from the garage into the kitchen. Your high-traffic areas look like a road map! No matter how closely you followed your vacuuming schedule, sooner or later you’re going to need the services of a carpet steam cleaner.

What’s the difference between a vacuum cleaner and a carpet steam cleaner? A vacuum cleaner uses suction to get the job done while your carpet steam cleaner uses water and cleaning solution in addition to suction to reach the desired result. You vacuum cleaner can remove most of the dust and debris but to really get deep and clean, you need the multi-function versatility of a carpet steam cleaner. You can’t use a vacuum cleaner to scrub the ceramic tile in your bathroom – you need a carpet steam cleaner for that job! Here’s some additional items your carpet steam cleaner can help you clean: 

• Carpet Surfaces – Removes stains, dirt paths, and allergens.
• Hard Surfaces – Excellent for linoleum, sealed wood floors, and ceramic tile.
• Liquid Spills – Picks up liquid spills on carpets or bare floors (including pet messes).
• Upholstery – Clean your fabric furniture, couch and chair pillows, and curtains.

Now that you’ve decided you need to steam clean your carpet, you have two choices; hire a professional carpet cleaner about every six months or do it yourself. With today’s advanced machines which are easy to use, you can own a carpet steam cleaner and save money cleaning your own carpet on your own schedule. Instead of inviting strangers into your home twice a year, clean your own carpet on your schedule with no appointment necessary. Purchasing of a carpet steam cleaner will pay for itself in just two or three uses. It will also prove to be beneficial to have a steam cleaner on hand for those cleaning emergencies that arise without notice.

What are the advantages of cleaning with steam? For starters, cleaning with steam is more efficient and powerful than other types of cleaning methods such as using dry powders and disposable wipes. Carpet steam cleaners will make your home healthier for your family and your pets. The end result of using a carpet steam cleaner is a carpet rid of stains, spills, and oils, as well as removing allergens (e.g., dust mites, pet dander, grass pollens, ragweed, etc.) and other pollutants.

HOW DOES A CARPET STEAM CLEANER WORK?
At first glance, an upright vacuum cleaner looks very similar to an upright carpet steam cleaner. Both uprights clean your carpet, but in different ways. A steam cleaner works by using low-moisture vapor steam, using the ordinary tap water found in your home. The water is mixed in the carpet steam cleaner with a carpet/upholstery or hard/bare floor-specific cleaning solution. The steam and cleaning solution mixture uses high heat to remove the impurities from your carpet and to loosen the anchor, which the dirt, oils, and other debris used to adhere to the pile of your carpet. The end result is virtually a sanitary surface that you could take a nap on; after your carpet dries of course! 

ANATOMY OF A CARPET STEAM CLEANER
Let’s look into what features and options make this a can’t-live-without addition to your home’s cleaning toolbox. 

Tanks

• All carpet steam cleaners have at least two separate tanks; one for the clean water and one for the soiled water. Some models have a separate, third tank used to dispense the cleaning solution which is mixed with the clean water. The cleaning solution tank is usually permanently mounted near or up against the clean water tank.
• Depending on the model, the clean water tank and soiled water recovery tank can be mounted vertically (one tank directly above the other) or can be mounted side by side. If mounted vertically, the clean water tank is on top and the soiled water recovery tank is on the bottom.
• Tanks are translucent or transparent for easy viewing of water condition and levels.

Water

• Ordinary tap water is all that is needed to clean your carpets. For carpet steam cleaners that don’t have an internal heating element to create water (steam) vapors, the heat is drawn from the water put into the clean water tank. That means getting the hottest water (approximately 120-degrees F) from your tap as safely as you can before pouring it into the clean water tank in your carpet steam cleaner.

Agitator Brush Height

• The agitator scrubbing brushes of your carpet cleaner have various settings depending on the surface you’re cleaning. For most liquid spills for example, the agitator brush will probably be turned off and not used at all.
  • Carpet Surfaces -Agitator scrubbing brushes will rotate at maximum speed for this cleaning job.
  • Hard Surfaces -Agitator scrubbing brushes will rotate at a slower speed.
  • Liquid Spills -Movement of the agitator scrubbing brushes is not required or needed.

Some carpet steam cleaners have automatic height adjustment settings for the agitator brush when cleaning your carpet. If your height adjustment on your cleaner is not automatic, move the selector to the desired height and continue cleaning.

Cleaning Solutions

• If there is a separate tank used to fill with the cleaning solution, it will be considerably smaller than the clean water tank and the soiled water recovery tank. A typical size for a cleaning solution tank mounted on a carpet steam cleaner would be approximately 16 ounces. A supply of cleaning solution can come in containers as large as 128 ounces (two gallons).
• Some models require manually adding measured amounts of cleaning solution per cleaning directly into the clean water tank. The uniform amount is determined by a fill line also referred to as cap’s full (usually two caps for carpet and one cap for upholstery). The measuring cup (cap) performs double duty as the solution tank’s cap. NOTE:  Cap’s full is not referring to the cap on the cleaning solution product bottle.
• If using a cleaning solution is desired, ensure it is formulated for the surface you are cleaning. You don’t want to use a hard/bare floor cleaning solution on your carpet or upholstery. Also, some cleaning solutions are manufacturer specific so ensure to read the label first. The label might not list specific brand compatibility, but instead will say the product is compatible with most deep cleaners.
• Allergies in the United States are at an all-time high. If you or a member of your family is susceptible to allergies, you’ll need to ensure your cleaning solution is biodegradable and is free of fragrances and dyes.
• One of the biggest reasons to own a carpet steam cleaner is pet stains.  A small mess can be tracked to every room in your home causing unpleasant odors and possible damage to your carpet. Check to see if your cleaning solution has enzymes to neutralize pet odors.

Tool Caddy

• Just like your vacuum cleaner, a hose and various attachments are mounted on a tool caddy for easy access. Become familiar with these items before you need them as uses can be different than a similar tool on your vacuum cleaner. Plus, some attachments are motorized such as SpinScrub^TM hand tool from Hoover used for carpeted stairs and upholstery. Here are some tools and attachments you might find on a carpet steam cleaner’s tool caddy:
  • Hose
  • Stair Nozzle
  • Upholstery Nozzle
  • Hard Floor Squeegee

Power Cord

• If your carpet steam cleaner turning off suddenly is the only time you are aware that you’re short on power cord, look for a model with an extra-long cord. You don’t want to be walking on your wet carpet to find another outlet to plug into.
• A model with an extra-long cord would be in the 28 to 30-foot and longer range.

Transporting & Carrying

• If you need to carry your carpet steam cleaner up and down stairs or need to need to transport it on a regular basis, ensure your model has an ergonomic and balanced carrying handle.
• To transport your upright on level ground, you can put the handle in the upright and locked position. Then tilt the cleaner back on its wheels (towards you) and push forward.

Storage

• You need to consider where your carpet steam cleaner will be stored when not in use. Unless you have an exceptionally dirty home, you might not use your cleaner but a few times a year. A more out-of-the way storage spot will be more ideal than the closet where you store your vacuum.
• Some models feature a collapsible handle which can drastically reduce the vertical space required to store your cleaner.

Eco-Friendly?

• With no physical modifications, you can clean your carpet the Green way by simply using water only in your carpet steam cleaner. Ensure your cleaning solution tank (if installed) is empty; otherwise, cleaning solution will be automatically fed into your clean water.

Vacuuming

• For best carpet steam cleaning results, vacuum your carpet FIRST! Any dirt and debris you can remove with your vacuum cleaner will make your carpet steam cleaner’s job easier. It might seem redundant to clean before you clean. But, your carpet steam cleaner is designed to get the deeply embedded dirt and debris while your vacuum can help get out the surface dirt and loose debris.

Colorfastness Test aka Better Safe than Sorry Test

• Testing the upholstery on your furniture before using your carpet steam cleaner can save you money and heartache. The colors running on your couch like a finger painting from one of your children isn’t your carpet steam cleaner’s fault. It is the fabric of your furniture being incompatible with liquid and/or the cleaning solution you’re using. Read the label on your furniture first and use the following colorfastness test:
  • Get a white, absorbent cloth wet, wring it out, and then add a small dab of the cleaning solution you intend to use to clean your furniture.
  • In a small, hidden area, such as the lower skirting on the back rail of your couch, gently rub a small area of the fabric with the dampened cloth and cleaning solution.
  • Wait approximately 10 minutes and then check for color bleed and running using a white paper towel or a dry, white cloth. If the color of your couch is now on the paper towel or cloth, do not use your carpet steam cleaner to clean that particular piece of furniture.
  • If your furniture has more than one color, check ALL colors. One color might not bleed and the next color will. Better safe than sorry!

Do not use a carpet steam cleaner on upholstery or fabric marked “S” (stands for solvent/dry clean only). Damage to your furniture will be permanent so check the labels first!

FINAL THOUGHTS
Armed with a vacuum cleaner and a carpet steam cleaner, you’re equipped to keep your home and your carpet cleaner and healthier. Don’t forget to review your carpet’s warranty and manufacturer’s cleaning recommendations as they could have tips on maintenance and cleaning which are specific to your type of carpet cleaning needs.

Still have questions? – feel free to speak with an hhgregg associate. We offer the best-educated associates in the business who are smart enough to make it simple. Price and Advice Guaranteed!

Frustrated with everyday products letting him down and not working like they were supposed to, James Dyson set out in 1978 to reinvent the household vacuum cleaner. He not only developed one that wouldn’t lose suction, he created the industry’s first bagless model. An especially novel idea at the time considering suppliers of the paper vacuum bags and the vacuum manufacturers themselves were virtually inseparable.

WHAT EXACTLY MAKES A DYSON DIFFERENT?
Part of the reason why the dreaded household chore of vacuuming is avoided by every member of your family is because most vacuums don’t do the job they are designed to do. You end up running over the same patch of carpet to pick up that tiny piece of paper or other debris. But, the vacuum cleaner never seems to pick it up. Why?

The reason is your old vacuum cleaner is either clogged or has lost all suction … or both. The end result is you aren’t cleaning anything at all. You’re just spreading around the dirt and debris or trampling it even further into the pile of your carpet.

This is where a Dyson comes into play – no clogging and no loss of suction. Traditional vacuum cleaners use bags or filters to separate the dirt from the air. Not an efficient method. This is because paper bags have millions of tiny holes that allow dirt right back out into the air. Plus, a clogged bag or filter can reduce a vacuum’s suction power by as much as 50 percent.

Dyson is different because there is no bag or filter to clog which means full suction is maintained room after room. The no clogging and no loss of suction are derived from its patented Root Cyclone^TM technology which uses centrifugal force to spin dust out of the air.

FEATURES COMMON IN ALL DYSON UPRIGHTS
Dyson’s entire line of uprights each have their own specialty – from the stairs and high-reach cleaning DC14 All Floors to the pet hair remover DC17 Animal. But, all Dyson upright vacuum cleaners have several features in common with each other. Those features are:

Motorized Brushbar & Brush Control – The brushbar can be turned off to protect delicate flooring. Separate electronically-controlled motor powers the brushbar to optimize pick-up.

Lifetime HEPA Washable Filter – No need to replace. All you’ll need to do is wash the filter every three to six months. No additional bags or filters to buy. Just wash the filter at least once every three to six months and it will last the lifetime of the vacuum.

Air expelled from a Dyson has up to 150 times less mold and bacteria than the air you breathe. Dyson vacuums are approved by both the Asthma and Allergy Foundation of America (AAFA) and the British Allergy Foundation (BAF).

Clear Bin^TM – Hygienic and Quick to Empty – You just rid your carpet of dirt; there is no reason to expose yourself to it again! With Dyson, there is no need to touch the dirt when emptying the Clear Bin^TM. Just push the button and everything your Dyson has collected will fall into the receptacle. The Clear Bin^TM is exactly that – clear. Now you can see when it is full and there is no need to stop and check several times as with other vacuums.

Root Cyclone^TM Technology – No clogging. No loss of suction. The no clogging and no loss of suction are derived from Dyson’s patented Root Cyclone^TM technology which uses centrifugal force to separate dust out of the air. 

Dyson cylinder machines have three distinct stages of cyclonic separation – each engineered to capture smaller and smaller particles.

Quick-Draw Telescope Reach^TM Wand – Single action wand with instant reach for stair and high-reach cleaning.

Ergonomic Handle – Designed and positioned for comfortable carrying.

Sum of its Parts – Dyson vacuums are made from ABS and tough polycarbonate, materials used to manufacture crash helmets.

DC14 All Floors – The vacuum that doesn’t lose suction
For easier cleaning under low furniture, Dyson offers the DC14 upright vacuum. The low reach floor tool attaches to the wand to clean hard-to-reach places such as under beds and sofas.

Root Cyclone^TM Technology – Patented technology that doesn’t lose suction power as you vacuum.

Telescope Reach^TM Wand – Extends instantly for stair and high-reach cleaning.

Cleaner Exhaust Air – Air expelled from a Dyson has up to 150 times less mold and bacteria than the air you breathe.

CERTIFIED asthma & allergy friendly^TM – The DC14 All Floors is CERTIFIED asthma & allergy friendly^TM by the Asthma and Allergy Foundation of America (AAFA).

5 Year Warranty – Parts and labor guaranteed by Dyson for 5 years.

No Extra Costs – Lifetime washable filter designed to trap microscopic allergens such as pollen and bacteria.

Power Cord – 35.4 foot cable length.

Power Input – 12 amps maximum power input.

DC17 Animal – Designed for homes with pets
The Dyson Animal is the most powerful upright for pet hair. The low reach floor tool provides for easier cleaning under low furniture. Plus, each Animal vacuum comes with a carpet care kit that includes Zorb powder that absorbs dirt from your carpet and Dyzolv spray that removes spills and marks.

Level 3 Root Cyclone^TM Technology – the most efficient cyclone technology for capturing microscopic dust.

Constant Suction – Dyson vacuums have constant suction, room after room.

Best Pick-up – Unique cleaner head and motorized brushbar for the best average pick-up across all floor types.

Cleaner Exhaust Air – Air expelled from a Dyson has up to 150 times less mold and bacteria than the air you breathe.

Included in the Box

• Mini Turbine Head
• Low Reach Floor Tool
• Carpet Care Cleaning Kit

Quick-draw Telescope Reach^TM Wand – Single-action waned with instant 16 foot reach for stair and high-reach cleaning.

CERTIFIED asthma & allergy friendly^TM – The DC17 Animal is CERTIFIED asthma & allergy friendly^TM by the Asthma and Allergy Foundation of America (AAFA).

5 Year Warranty – Parts and labor guaranteed by Dyson for 5 years.

DC25 All Floors – For all floor types
Remove dust, dirt and debris from your floors and carpets with ease. This Dyson Ball Upright Vacuum has powerful Root Cyclone technology and HEPA filtration. Plus, Ball^TM technology makes it easier to maneuver with smooth steering at the turn of the wrist.

Ball Technology – Steers smoothly with a turn of the wrist.

Root Cyclone^TM Technology – Patented technology that doesn’t lose suction power as you vacuum.

Quick-draw Telescope Reach^TM Wand – Single-action waned with instant 14.5 foot reach for stair and high-reach cleaning.

Cleaner Exhaust Air – Air expelled from a Dyson has up to 150 times less mold and bacteria than the air you breathe.

CERTIFIED asthma & allergy friendly^TM – The DC25 All Floors is CERTIFIED asthma & allergy friendly^TM by the Asthma and Allergy Foundation of America (AAFA).

5 Year Warranty – Parts and labor guaranteed by Dyson for 5 years.

No Extra Costs – Lifetime washable filter designed to trap microscopic allergens such as pollen and bacteria.

Power Cord – 25 foot cable length.

Power Input – 12 amps maximum power input.

FINAL THOUGHTS
A quality vacuum cleaner, such as a Dyson upright, can help your home stay clean by ridding your carpet of dirt and allergens. Looking clean isn’t good enough – it must be been clean deep down in the pile of your carpet and in the air you breathe. Dyson vacuums are different for a reason – NO clogging and NO loss of suction.

From microscopic particles to fluff and lint to larger dirt and debris, Dyson vacuums use powerful suction, a shroud, and centrifugal forces to pick up the dirt and keep it from returning to the air or your carpet. Exactly the way a vacuum cleaner is supposed to work in the first place.

To view our line of Dyson uprights, click here.

Still have questions? – Feel free to speak with an hhgregg associate. We offer the best-educated associates in the business who are smart enough to make it simple. Price and Advice Guaranteed!

Your local grocer is making room for laundry soap specifically designed for use in front-load and HE washers.

The initials ‘HE’ stands for high-efficiency and that’s exactly what you get. All front-load and high-efficiency washers use 20 to 66 percent less water and 20 to 50 percent less energy than traditional, top-loading washers. As a result, the soaps you use need to be more efficient as well.

Not sure if the bottle on the store shelf is HE – just look for the blue, oval-shaped logo stating the product is for high-efficiency washers only.

WHY SHOULD YOU USE IT?
Because you’ll have cleaner clothes, use less soap, and use less water. HE detergents create fewer suds than traditional laundry detergents. Fewer suds mean better cleaning performance. HE detergent is better for the internal workings of the machine, and they cost about the same as regular detergent because you use less per load.

WHAT IF I USE MY OLD DETERGENT?
With the increased agitation of the front-load design, using traditional soaps can cause an excess suds error in your washing machine’s sensors. The error means the sensors aren’t detecting enough water in the tub (faux error).

Although most machines have an automatic program in their software to deal with this, in extreme cases you might have to stop the washer. Then you’ll need to remove your over-soaped clothes, rinse them in the sink, then put them back into the washer and start over.  The easiest way to avoid this problem is to use the soap designed for your HE washing machine – HE laundry detergent.

DO THEY HAVE HE IN MY FAVORITE BRAND?
Popular brands such as Tide® and Ultra Sunlight® carry HE versions of their traditional detergents in both liquid and powder form. For allergy sufferers and people with sensitive skin, HE detergents are available free of dyes, perfumes, and enzymes. Even companies like Melaluca, Amway, and Seventh Generation are now offering HE laundry detergents. Also included in the HE laundry soap realm are eco-friendly soaps like NaturOli Nuts.

When you upgrade to a high-efficiency washer, upgrade your laundry detergent, too!

FINAL THOUGHTS
If you’ve just purchased a new high-efficiency or front-loading machine, don’t add any soap the first time you put your laundry in the washer. You’ll be surprised how much residual soap is embedded in your clothes from your old top-loading machine!

Still have questions? – feel free to speak with an hhgregg associate. We offer the best-educated associates in the business who are smart enough to make it simple. Price and Advice Guaranteed!

For most people the choice of which energy source they will use for cooking is simple; you go with what the contractor put in the house when it was built. But with more and more people choosing to remodel their kitchens or simply upgrade their appliances, cooking options are being reopened.  So, which is better, gas or electric?

Some people find that after years of cooking on an electric unit, they have trouble adjusting to gas and vice versa. It takes time to break old habits when you switch your cooking surface. Any time you change your cooking appliance, be ready to make some adjustments to your habits. A new range, like any other product takes some getting used to.

COOKTOP HEATING DIFFERENCES
Any professional chef will tell you gas is best for cooking on top of the stove. It gives you more precise temperature control and the heat can be controlled better. When you turn off a gas burner the heat stops immediately. With an electric cooktop the coils in the cooking element stay hot and continue to add heat to your pan after you turn off the element. So you have to anticipate this and either turn off the element before you’re done cooking or move the pan to a cool burner to get the desired result.

A third option, an electric cooktop with ribbon elements, can provide a gas-like cooking experience with instant on and instant off control of the heat.  Another feature specific to ribbon elements is the ability to adjust the heating elements to match the size of the pan you’re using – thus conserving energy. Depending on the model you choose, the versatility in elements can range from as small as 5-inches to as large as 12 inches. The tri-ring ribbon element choices available are – 6 inches (sauce pan), 9 inches (open skillet), and 12 inches (stockpot). Although cooking with gas still has an edge over electric ribbon elements, if you’re stuck with electricity as your power source then this is as close to gas as you can get.

OVEN BAKING DIFFERENCES
Anyone who bakes will tell you an electric oven offers more uniform heat than a gas oven. Electric ovens tend to do a better job of browning foods more evenly. Gas ovens usually have one burner tube in the center of the top and bottom of the oven cavity. This design makes the oven hotter in the middle, and cooler at the sides. On lower-priced models, gas ovens may only have a lower burner, putting the broiler in the drawer under the oven. These lower-priced models are not very good for even cooking. It’s well worth the money to step up to a dual burner gas oven if you like to bake. Electric ovens have multi-pass elements on the top and bottom. The element curves back and forth across the space to give a more uniform heat pattern. Electric wins in ovens because that entire sheet of cookies will be evenly browned.

DUAL FUEL OPTIONS – Best of Both Worlds
The good news is that you have more options! Many of the top appliance manufacturers now offer ‘dual fuel’ ranges. These give you a gas cooktop with an electric oven in the same unit. 

• Some gas-only ranges now include an electric bake element in addition to the gas burner to help provide more uniform heat.
• Some manufacturers also have gas convection ovens which offer excellent uniformity in a gas oven.

If you choose to go with built-in appliances, you can easily use both gas and electric units in your kitchen.

ADDITIONAL COOKING OPTIONS – Magnetic Induction Cooktops
If you don’t have access to gas and still want gas-like performance in a cooktop, you might want to consider the newer magnetic induction cooktops on the market. Induction cooktops use electricity to create a magnetic field which heats up pans quickly and responds more like gas than traditional coil or radiant cooktops. Currently, induction cooking is mostly available in stand-alone cooktops, but free-standing ranges with induction will be coming in the next few years if there is market demand.

Still have questions? – feel free to speak with an hhgregg associate. We offer the best-educated associates in the business who are smart enough to make it simple. Price and Advice Guaranteed!

It’s not your cooking, it’s your cookware. Selecting a cookware set can be a major investment and last a lifetime if selected with care and maintained properly. A basic set of cookware usually consists of: 

• 1, 2, and 3-quart covered saucepans
• 8-quart covered stockpot
• 8″ and 10″ open skillets (frying pans)
• 5-quart covered sauté pan

Choose a basic set and then add pieces as your cooking repertoire grows.  Mix and match materials.  Don’t worry that it doesn’t match the rest of your cookware, this isn’t a fashion show. Examples of items to add to your cookware set might be a cast iron skillet, a stir fry pan, or a roaster. You’re not going to find an all-inclusive set for every type of cooking so focus on a basic set of cookware first.

CONSTRUCTION – Stainless Steel, Copper, Cast Iron, and other Metals
Selecting from stainless steel, copper, cast iron, and other metals depends on what type of cooking you plan on doing. Cast iron, for example, can have chemical reactions with high acidic foods such as wine or tomatoes.  So cooking your grandma’s secret spaghetti sauce in a cast iron skillet is probably not a good idea. Other metals, such as copper, are best for high-heat, fast-cooking techniques such as sautéing.

Ensure the base of the cookware provides for fast and even heating across the bottom so there are no hot spots and your food cooks evenly and thoroughly. Examples of good heat conductors are: 

• Heavy-gauge aluminum core
• Aluminum disc fully encapsulated by stainless steel
• Copper disc on the bottom of the pan

Stainless steel is the most versatile material for cookware construction but it doesn’t conduct heat very well.  Ensure you cookware set has good heat conductors along with good construction.

HANDLES & LIDS
A very important item to check in the selection of your cookware set is the type and length of handles and how well they are attached.  Ensure they have sturdy rivets or screws to keep them permanently in place. Also ensure they are large enough for good grip and don’t convey so much heat from the pan you could burn yourself. Same goes for the lids in your cookware set. Ensure lids fit flat and snug so heat can’t escape and have large enough handles which are easy to grip (even with a potholder).

RIGHT PAN FOR THE RIGHT FOOD
Cooking the right food in the wrong pan can lead to disaster. Here are suggestions for foods best suited for a particular piece of cookware: 

• Saucepan = oatmeal, vegetables
• Stockpot = boiling pasta, simmering stews
• Skillets = frying chicken, pancakes
• Sauté = one-dish meals, sautéing onions

OVEN SAFE? DISHWASHER SAFE?
Check the literature provided with your cookware set to see if all the items are oven safe and/or dishwasher safe.  Oven safe simply refers to the temperature inside your oven which your cookware can safely maintain its original structure without melting, cracking, or warping. Some cookware is oven safe up to 500 F.

There are three items which will cause damage to your cookware in the dishwasher. 

• High water temperature during wash cycles
• High drying heat temperature
• Harsh cleaning agents

More than the high temps inside your dishwasher, the harsh cleaning agents cause the most damage. Results will be tarnishing the cookware surface, removal of the cookware surface, or the cleaning agent getting under the surface itself causing peeling or separation from the cookware. Most anodized aluminum, nonstick, and non-enameled cookware are NOT dishwasher safe.

If your cookware is labeled ‘dishwasher safe,’ then it can repeatedly handle these conditions. Some examples of dishwasher safe cookware are: 

• KitchenAid
  • Gourmet Distinctions
  • Stainless Steel Clad
  • Hard Base Porcelain
• Faberware
  • Accents
  • Classic Series
  • Millennium Stainless Steel
• Viking
  • All products are dishwasher safe, but hand washing is highly recommended

NONSTICK COOKING SURFACES – Cooking & Cleaning Tips
Most nonstick coatings are multi-layered and can have a ceramic primer which hardens the inside of the pan. Care must still be used when cooking and cleaning of the pan. While cooking, do not use metal spoons or whisks as they may scratch the nonstick surface. Also, do not use the nonstick surface to cut foods.

For cleaning, use a soft sponge or dish rag to remove food debris from the nonstick surface. Do not use any metal, abrasive, or stiff pads as can cause permanent damage. Also, ensure your cleaning agent is suited for a nonstick surface.

FINAL THOUGHTS
Most home chefs don’t need a huge variety of cookware. A basic set offers the most common and useful shapes and sizes you’ll need. Buying a cookware set instead of one item at a time can save you time and money. If you’re looking to save money, buy the best set you can afford. Cheap sets won’t last and won’t deliver the performance your food deserves.

Still have questions? – feel free to speak with an hhgregg associate. We offer the best-educated associates in the business who are smart enough to make it simple. Price and Advice Guaranteed!

Whether you’re an apartment dweller, a home renter, or you’ve just purchased a home without central air, a room in your home that is too hot can become very uncomfortable or even unbearable. What you need is a high-efficiency portable unit, window unit, or through-the-wall unit to make any room in your home the most popular place in the house.

Technology has stepped into the cool air with digital remote controls and control panels. Plus, today’s room air conditioner units are energy efficient and oftentimes, portable. You can chill where you want, when you want. Lower prices and quicker installation also make purchasing a room air conditioner an affordable alternative to installing central air.

LOCATION, LOCATION, LOCATION!
All three styles of room air conditioners have their advantages and disadvantages based on installation locations depending on what works best for your cooling needs and whether you’re the home owner or a renter. If you own your home and live in a warmer climate, a through-the-wall unit might be your best investment due to its permanent installation. If you can’t renovate your home or apartment because you’re renting, a room or window unit will be better.

Portable
The most physically mobile of all room air conditioners is the portable unit. Moving portable units from room to room is easy, so you can cool your bedroom at night and cool your living room during the day. 

• Non-commercial units have a maximum BTU of 12,500 (approximately 600 sq. ft.).
• Most have two wheels or four casters for easy movement and are approximately 2 to 3-feet tall.

Window
These units are usually found in apartments or smaller homes and are used to cool one or two rooms. 

• This style is a self-contained unit installed through an open window with the cooling (condenser, fan, and compressor) unit inside the living space and the hot portion (fan and evaporator) sitting outside the window.
• Installation is semi-permanent and can be moved from window to window.

Wall
The functions of a through-the-wall room air conditioner are the same as a window unit but it is installed through a hole cut into the side of the home. 

• This style is a self-contained unit installed through an open hole in the wall with the cooling (condenser, fan, and compressor) unit inside the living space and the hot portion (fan and evaporator) sitting outside the window.
• Doesn’t occupy any floor space (portable unit) or block the window view (window unit).

WHAT OPTIONS DO I NEED?
After you’ve decided on where your room air conditioner will be located in your home, the next item to add to the decision equation is the square footage of the room you need to keep cool.

Room Size
No matter if you choose a portable, window, or wall unit, you must match your room size to the BTUs of your room air conditioner. Use the following chart to ensure your cooling capacity matches your square footage:

• A unit that is too small will work overtime and won’t be unable to maintain a set temperature.
• Units that are too large won’t be able to run long enough to dehumidify the room properly. Because the unit will cycle on and off too frequently, the evaporator coils will freeze up and eventually lead to the unit shutting down possibly causing permanent damage and wasting energy. All this will result in the room being too cool and humid because there is still too much water in the air.
• A room air conditioner that is the right size might run longer during the day, but will do a much better job of removing humidity and keeping the room at the proper temperature. In the case of air conditioners, bigger is not better.

Window Type & Size

• For window room air conditioners, measure your window’s width and height before selecting a unit. The installation kit will fill the space of the open window without physical modifications to your window frame.
• Window room air conditioners are designed to fit three different types of windows:
  • Double Hung (slide up and down)
  • Casement (crank out)
  • Horizontal Sliding (left or right)

Installation
There are three locations available in your home for temporary or permanent installation of your air conditioning unit.

Portable – The required installation kits for windows and sliding patio doors are usually provided and are easy to install.

Wall - Don’t be bashful about asking for professional help before punching a hole in the side of your home to install the sleeve the unit slides into. A mistake can cause extensive structural damage to your home.

Window - Most units come with a window installation kit which any handy do-it-yourselfer can install without requiring professional assistance.

Power Supply & Power Cords

• The electrical draw of your room air conditioner is a safety concern for both your home and the unit. Small to medium BTU units will require a standard 115-volt outlet. Larger BTU units may require a dedicated 115-volt circuit. The largest BTU units will require a 230/208-volt circuit. Check with an electrician if you’re not sure.
• All portable, window, and wall air conditioners are equipped with safer plugs which helps prevent fires in your home caused by damaged power cords. The unit is designed to shut down all electrical power to the unit if they sense the power cord is damaged.

Control Panels

• No more clumsy switches and guessing what the temperature is set as when using the old ‘red’ (warmer) and ‘blue’ (cooler) dials. The easy-to-ready LED screens provide clear labeling and control of your unit.
• Some units have raised buttons in the shape of arrows, circles, and ovals which are easier to identify from a distance.

Remote Control
Ensure you air conditioner comes with a remote control which is probably different than your television’s remote in that it has a digital display screen. The screen will display items such as the following:

• Current Temperature
• Set Temperature
• Operation Mode (auto, cool, dry, heat, fan, etc.)
• Time of Day
• 24-Hour Timer Settings

An innovative feature in some remote controls is a remote thermostat that is able to sense the temperature where the remote control is sitting away from the main air conditioning unit. If you’re watching TV in your favorite recliner with the remote control next to you, the sensor will detect the ambient temperature around your chair and adjust the temperature accordingly.

Sleeve

• A sleeve is a metal box open on opposite ends to allow the wall air conditioner to slide into the sleeve (but not all the way through it).
• A sleeve is required for wall units because the wall itself cannot support the weight of the air conditioner. Without a sleeve, your unit will fall out of the wall.
• Some manufacturers have standard-sized sleeves so it is best to purchase a sleeve from the same manufacturer that made the air conditioner.
• If there is already a sleeve in your wall, measure it carefully to ensure you unit will fit.

Water Drainage
Portable room air conditioners have three methods of dispensing the humidity collected from the air. 

1. Condensation is disbursed through a tube to the outside of the home.

2. Some units will have a bucket or pan that collects the condensation and will need to be monitored and emptied as needed.

3. Self-contained units recycle the condensation and redistribute the air (after it is cooled) back into the room.

Heating

• If the weather in your neighborhood changes by the hour, a unit that also has a heating function will take the chill out of the air.
• For a unit that performs cooling and heating functions, the BTU rating will be different for cooling and heating. For example, a unit might have a 12,000 BTU rating for cooling but a 6,200 BTU rating for heating.
• Units will have heat pumps or electric heat strips for providing the warm air.
• Heating options are available in portable, window, and wall units.

Timers

• Capable of turning the unit on or off any time during a 24-hour period (cooling or heating).
• Eight-hour sleep mode increases the temperature by two degrees 30 minutes after you activate it. After 30 more minutes have passed, the temperature increases another two degrees. That temperature is then maintained for seven continuous hours before returning to the original temperature.

Noise

• Although modern room air conditioners run more efficiently and are insulated better than the units of yesterday, there will be an increase in noise in the room when the unit is operating.
• Consider not installing the unit next to a telephone or your favorite chair as your hearing and listening ability might be challenged.

Ventilation

• Since portable room air conditioners are self-contained, the hot air they collect needs to ventilate through a 3 to 5-inch hose.
• No window is required for venting. But, with minor modifications a portable unit can be vented through a wall, sliding patio door, drop ceiling, or through a window.

Storage

• A portable room air conditioner unit might only be needed during the hottest times of the year. When the days and nights have cooled off, it can be stored in a closet, basement, or your garage until the heat returns next season.
• When the cold weather returns to your neighborhood and you won’t need your window air condition for awhile, you’ll either have to winterize your unit or find a place in your home to store it for a few months.

Louvers
If you are placing your portable unit or mounting a window or wall unit near a corner, ensure the unit has adjustable vertical and horizontal louvers capable of directing the airflow towards the center of the room.

ENERGY STAR®

• Not all portable, window, or wall air conditioning units are ENERGY STAR® qualified so read the product packaging or literature provided with the unit you’re researching to ensure you’re conserving energy. You don’t want your energy bill to go up just because the temperature outside is rising.
• ENERGY STAR® qualified room air conditioners use at least 10 percent less energy than conventional models. The minimal energy consumption is partially achieved by units that include timers for better temperature control at night and when nobody is at home.
• The air conditioner you’re interested in might be eligible for ENERGY STAR® rebates and federal tax credits. Visit http://www.energystar.gov/ for more information.

DEFINITIONS RELATED TO ROOM AIR CONDITIONERS
Room air conditioners have a few acronyms and terms used to describe their features, functions, and benefits. We’ll decipher the lingo for you here:

BTU

• BTU stands for British Thermal Unit and is unit of energy used to describe the power of heating and cooling systems.
• One BTU is the amount of heat required to raise one pound of liquid water one degree Fahrenheit. One ton equals 12,000 BTU/h, which is calculated from the amount of energy required to melt one ton of ice in a 24-hour period.
• For heating and air conditioning purposes, the BTU power rating is calculated as energy consumer per hour and can be noted on product packaging and other documentation as BTU or BTU/h.

EER

• The Energy Efficiency Ratio is calculated by dividing the BTUs by the number of cooling watts.  

15,100 BTUs ÷ 1,400 Cooling Watts = 10.7 EER

•  The higher the EER number the more efficient the unit should be. A higher EER-rated air conditioner will probably be more expensive up front, so you’ll need to decide if the higher initial cost is worth the energy savings you may be getting down the road.
• Although EER ratings range from 8-11.5, if you live in a seasonally warmer climate, select a rating of at least 10 or higher.

Short Cycle

• A short cycle is caused when a room air conditioner is too large for the area it is cooling. This will cause the unit to pump out too much cool air causing it to reach the thermostat’s setting too quickly. If this continues, damage to the mechanical and electrical components of the unit are certain and will dramatically shorten the life of your air conditioner.

FINAL THOUGHTS
Keeping your home’s interior comfortable can be accomplished inexpensively and effectively by following these five steps: 

1. Choose the type of unit to fit your needs – portable, window, or wall.
2. Calculate square footage of the room you need to cool.
3. Match square footage to the BTUs needed using the chart shown above.
4. Select the options and features you need.
5. Properly install the unit using professional services if required.

Most all portable, window, and wall units come with a one year parts and labor warranty. Read your owner’s manual from cover-to-cover to ensure you know exactly how to operate your unit. You’ll be surprised how many features, functions, and benefits you’ll learn about your air conditioner and you’ll end up using your unit to its capability.

Still have questions? – feel free to speak with an hhgregg associate. We offer the best-educated associates in the business who are smart enough to make it simple. Price and Advice Guaranteed!